Jump rings can vary in size from supplier to supplier (just like you may wear jeans in a size 6 or 8, depending on the brand). They can even vary from batch to batch from the same supplier. Therefore, even if you do obtain jump rings from the same sources I use, I still recommend that you purchase a small amount to test before you buy a large quantity.
The sterling silver and gold filled jump rings I used to make the weaves and projects in both books were obtained from Urban Maille. The jump rings for projects made from other metals (aluminum/niobium) were obtained from The Ring Lord. The rubber jump rings were purchased from Fire Mountain Gems. My size suggestions and RPI counts in the jump ring sizing charts for sterling silver in both books are based on jump rings I acquired from Urban Maille. The suggested aluminum sizes and RPI counts in the jump ring sizing charts for the first book are based on jump rings I acquired from The Ring Lord. In the advanced book, the aluminum sizes and RPI counts in the charts, list the companies from which the jump rings were procured (The Ring Lord, Metal Designz or C&T Designs which is no longer in business).
If you want to make your own jump rings or purchase your jump rings from a different source, you must test the jump rings to ensure that they will work for your project. If the result is not what you intend, you will need to try jump rings in a different gauge or inner diameter to achieve your result. Calculating aspect ratio is a helpful place to start.
Other factors, such as metal type or wire shape will also affect jump ring size. Therefore, if you choose to work in another metal or use jump rings made of differently shaped wire (square, half round, twisted, etc.), you will need to make adjustments.
Just as a knitter is advised to always make a gauge test swatch before knitting, you should test your materials before investing time and money into a project that will not produce the result you desire. I always make a test patch before I begin any new project. Once I'm confident that my jump rings are appropriate for my project, I buy all that I need (plus a bit more, in case of a chain maille emergency).
For more information on jump ring size, click here to read my blog post on Aspect Ratio.
In Advanced Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop, the jump ring charts for each weave include aspect ratios (ARs), along with the gauge and ID. The ARs that appear in black in the charts are the actual ARs that were taken from the websites of the vendors at the time the book was written (circa 2013). At that time, some vendors provided ARs for only some sizes and others did not include ARs on their websites at all. If I could not get the AR from the vendor’s site, I calculated the AR using the Common (Mandrel) method, not the Actual (Measured) method, and those figures appear in red on the charts. This is stated on page 10. Since vendors do occasionally update the figures on the websites and some have since added ARs to their sites, I recommend that you check their current websites to get the most current AR recommendation for your project.
Click here to read my blog post on aspect ratio.
On the surface, chain maille seems very simple. All you do is open, connect and close jump rings. That is true, but not entirely. There is more to it than that.
Opening and Closing Jump Rings: You may have a lot of experience making other types of jewelry and feel quite comfortable using jump rings, as you have used them to attach bails, clasps and ear wires hundreds of times. Using jump rings to attach findings is not quite the same as using jump rings to form intricate chain patterns.
Opening Jump Rings:
- You need to open them in the proper direction (depending on whether you're left or right handed) to make the weaving easier.
- You need to know the degree in which to open them.
Closing Jump Rings:
- You need to introduce inward tension to the jump ring to ensure a tight, strong closure.
- You may want to manipulate the jump ring to work-harden it a bit, strengthening the jump ring. This will vary with metal type as different metal have different working properties.
- You need to make sure that the ends touch, letting no light through.
- You need to make sure that the ends are perfectly aligned, not only horizontally, but vertically.
- You need to make sure you grip the jump rings properly so that you do not warp or mar them.
Closing a jump ring to attach an ear wire is simple. In chain maille, jump rings are woven through other jump rings, forming complex patterns where jump rings are positioned at various angles in the weave. All of these jump rings in close proximity to each other leave little room for you to place your pliers properly on the open jump ring, making it much more difficult to close.
Patterns: The trickiest part in making chain maille is learning patterns. Start with a pattern that is appropriate for your level. If you choose a pattern that is above your level of skill, you are just setting yourself up for frustration. I’ve seen people become convinced that they cannot make chain maille, simply because they started at a point beyond their capability.
You cannot judge the level of difficulty just by looking at a weave. Some weaves (Byzantine, for example) look very intricate, but are quite easy to learn. On the other hand, some weaves are more simple in appearance (Half Persian 4-in-1 or JPL, for example) but are actually complicated to weave and are better suited for intermediate students. If you’re just starting out in chain maille, choose a weave pattern that is rated for beginners. My first book, Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop, is a great place to start (shameless plug). The weaves are presented in order of complexity.
You wouldn’t attempt to make an intricately cabled Aran sweater for your first knitting project. You would start with a garter stitch pot-holder. Take the same approach with chain maille.
Using Tools: Just because chain maille jewelry can be made with a few simple hand tools does not mean that it is simple to do. You must be comfortable controlling tools. You need to have adequate hand strength and coordination to accomplish proper technique – skills that are achieved through practice. Proper tools make a difference. I recommend flat nose pliers instead of chain nose, as they provide more surface contact with the jump ring, giving the weaver more control.
Choosing Materials: Precious metals are very attractive, but I suggest beginners choose a less expensive metal. It will take time and practice to achieve properly closed jump rings. Marring and warping of jump rings are very likely when you are just learning, and it would be a shame to do that to precious metal jump rings. Use a less expensive metal until you improve your technique.
Choosing the Right Jump Ring Size: Jump rings must be the right size for the weave. You cannot just purchase some random size jump rings and expect them to be adequate for whatever it is you want to make. If you don’t get the right size for the project you want to make, you are setting yourself up for more frustration. There is a concept, known as aspect ratio, which helps you determine the right size jump rings for the job. Click here to read my blog post on aspect ratio. For your convenience, aspect ratio charts are included in both of my books, Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop, and Advanced Chain Maille Jewelry Workshop (another shameless plug).
For More Information: Maille Artisans International League (M.A.I.L.) is a useful chain maille resource. This site has informative articles, free tutorials and a library of weaves that you can reference.
Click here to read my blog post on choosing pliers.
Tuff Brake® is a urethane film that is used in the metal fabricating industry to eliminate press brake die witness marks caused during the bending process. For more information, here is a link to the manufacturer http://tuffbrakefilm.com/. Because it is used for industrial purposes, it is sold in relatively large quantities.
You can purchase a 12"x4" sheet from Pauline Warg's website - click here. Pauline Warg is the author of Making Metal Beads, Lark Books, 2006. She uses the material to protect textured metal when dapping.
Make sure to get the original (thinner) white sheet. One sheet is really all you'll need. You'll get about 6 tools out of it - more than enough to last a very long time - I'm still using my original tool.
You can download my original, full-size Half Persian Starter Tool Pattern on the Downloads/Links page.
When you release wire after coiling it around a mandrel to make jump rings, the wire attempts to return to its original shape and unwinds a bit. This results in jump rings with an inner diameter that is slightly larger than the size of the mandrel. The spring back rate will differ with metal type, size, temper and maker.
I made a short video to demonstrate this. Click here to see it.
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